Should You Clean 2 Cycle Small Engine Carburetors With Spray Carb Cleaner?
xi-23-07, 03:34 PM
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: The Mountains of E Tennessee
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
2 Cycle Mantis Tiller - No Get-go - Flooding
Mantis Tiller Model 7222-02-02
Kioritz 21.2 cc SV-4/B Blazon ane-Eastward
Zama Carburetor
I need some help from the two cycle engine experts. My Mantis tiller is six years onetime. I use it 2 - 3 times per year. I run the carb dry out afterward each apply. Each winter, I clean the air filter, spark plug, and add a teaspoon of oil to the cylinder. Spark plug was replaced in 2006.
This leap, the tiller would not rev to full throttle. I removed and inspected the muffler and screen; they were non clogged. I replaced the in-tank fuel filter and cleaned the fuel line and render line with compressed air. Once these items were completed, the tiller would run at total throttle, but it was not turning the RPMs that it normally turned.
The tiller was started today (kickoff time since spring) and information technology would not run at mid - full throttle. It idled fine, but would non rev. I adjusted the HS screw (approximately one/2 turn ... express by the plastic cap) with no change. I adapted the LS screw (again, express past plastic cap); no change. I returned both screws to original position.
I removed the air filter and fuel line. I sprayed automotive carb cleaner into the carb pharynx. I also sprayed carb cleaner into the fuel inlet (using a spare slice of fuel hose). I allow it sit down for 30 minutes and started the engine. It ran perfectly (fifty-fifty at WOT). In fact, it ran better than it has in years.
I let information technology absurd down, sprayed information technology off with the water hose (similar I always practice) and tried to start it. Information technology sputtered on the 4th or 5th pull, only would not commencement. I accept non been able to start information technology since. It floods very badly (approximately 4 -5 pulls of the starter cord volition cause gas to start dripping from the exhaust).
I'g bold that I will need to rebuild the carburetor. Is this correct or is the carb merely in demand of major adjustment (via the HS/LS needles)? Why did it run perfectly for xv - 20 minutes? Did the aerosol carb cleaner dissolve the metering diaphragm?
05-17-12, 06:26 PM
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Mantis Tiller
All of the above corrections seem to have worked, but possibly one really very nagging problem will testify itself again. In the Carb body, there is a very pocket-sized indentation housing a VERY FINE screen. This screen is part of the carb kit, merely has NO Office NUMBER. Information technology is also very, very easily not seen when opening the plastic purse housing all the other gaskets and diaphragms. When yous locate the screen, you will unremarkably observe it chock-full with what resembles grime, but it must be replaced. Pry very advisedly to "tip" it out of the torso of the carb and when installing the new screen, use a pencil eraser to push it in, therefore not damaging the screen.
I know we continuously arraign ethanol for bug and rightly so, almost of these engines and various fuel exposed parts just will not withstand the booze and they volition break downward, causing many many bug. Retrieve, when you lot use Whatever fuel stabilizer, you are only adding MORE booze to the fuel, even if in a tin, and if yous use this mix, you are accellerating decomposition of the fuel exposed parts, namely the needle valve tips and the gaskets.
When yous run a two cycle engine wide open and "purge" the fuel system to empty the fuel tank, you will deprive the engine internal parts that are lubricated with the oil mixed in the fuel, and for a very HOT few seconds, the engine is running out of fuel, information technology is also out of oil to lube the internal parts, and will accelerate wear on the bearings, piston, and rings. With the carburetor throttle at wide open, (engine not running), look into the pharynx and pull the starter rope, ignition off of course, and yous volition see the piston and rings laissez passer by the opening. The oil mixed with gasoline is how you are lubricating any 2cycle engine, unless information technology is oil injected, on only larger engines, like outboard engines. If yous are running at full throttle, at the end of the season, and run the engine out of fuel, you lot will crusade some pocket-size heat related problems that could haunt you subsequently, like accelerated wear. My advice is to merely dump the tank contents back into a container, spray some WD40 into the fuel line and employ the prime pump to purge, and at the same time spray into the carb opening equally you pull the engine through. Make certain the intake is sealed past simply endmost the choke by pulling the choke to full choke, this keeps dirt and moisture out and leave information technology in storage. Replace the spark plug AFTER you restart the next season to exist sure the new plug doesn't foul from the residue from the WD40 or whatever lube you used.
This is kind of drawn out, just facts I experience we should share. Hope this helps.
Oh by-the-way, use some diagonal cutters and snap the limiter caps off the mix screws. Go to a base setting of nigh 1 1/2 turns open from closed for a starting point, and DON"T tighten them likewise tight when endmost afterward setting the carb up subsequently overhaul. It'southward almost impossible to hold a screw driver on the mix screws with the 2cycle engine running, but notice a very small screwdriver, cut off about 2" of a plastic or rubber hose, the same size used for the ice maker in a refrigerator, slip this cut off hose over the end of the screwdriver and use it as a guide to get over the mix screws and you tin can arrange easily, and non have the screwdriver vibrate all over the engine!! Now I know some of you can't wait to condemn cutting off the limiter caps, but sometimes you simply can't get the aligning you need unless you remove them. It's non a sin, they were placed there by the factory to continue us from footling likewise much with the adjustments, but the Zama carb is a really weak link in an otherwise not bad footling tiller.
Source: https://www.doityourself.com/forum/outdoor-gasoline-electric-powered-equipment-small-engines/325256-2-cycle-mantis-tiller-no-start-flooding.html
Posted by: mccollumexpeithe1950.blogspot.com
0 Response to "Should You Clean 2 Cycle Small Engine Carburetors With Spray Carb Cleaner?"
Post a Comment